The Finger Lakes Has Found Its Voice
When most people think of American wine, their minds go straight to Napa or Sonoma. The Finger Lakes often get overlooked, known more for sweet Rieslings than world-class, terroir-driven wines.
THE VIEW FROM THE SUMMER HOUSE AT THE FORGE
I picked my spot to sip some dry Riesling
After spending a day with three remarkable wineries, I left convinced that needs to change.
What impressed me wasn't just the quality of the wines. It was the philosophy behind them.
Wine That Tastes Like Somewhere
As a wine educator, I spend a lot of time encouraging people to slow down, trust their own palate, and discover what they enjoy. But during one memorable day visiting three wineries, I found myself being reminded to do exactly the same thing.
Our first stop was Forge Cellars, and from the moment we arrived, I knew this wasn't going to be an ordinary tasting. We got a tour of the facility and learned about the details of the upcoming harvest. We scanned the vista of the slopes, laden with grapevines, overlooking Seneca Lake.
I am in my Riesling Era
Two different vintages, two different expressions.
Our educator, Thera Clark, welcomed our small group with warmth, knowledge, and genuine enthusiasm. She didn't simply pour wine and recite tasting notes. She shared stories of harvest, the evolution of the winery, vineyard practices, and the countless decisions that shape every vintage. She invited questions, encouraged discussion, and gave us the space to experience each wine, allowing us to explore what we were tasting in the glass.
One of the quotes that still sticks with me is what Rick Rainey, Forge Cellars' co-founder, says about their wines:
"Our goal is for our wines to reflect the place that they come from, because that is where the pleasure is. When you smell a wine, you should be transported to its origins and see the landscape."
How many wines truly transport you somewhere?
We tasted Rieslings from several vineyard sites, and instead of searching for familiar descriptors like lime, peach, or petrol, I found myself thinking about personality. The 2019 Willow Vineyard Riesling was mature and honeyed with a gentle expression, while the 2023 Wagner Caywood East Vineyard Riesling was riveting and sharp. They weren't simply different wines. They were indicators of different terroirs, though close by, expressed through the same grape.
Six Eighty Cellars may be one of the most exciting wineries I've visited in years.
Our next stop showed me the joy of fearless experimentation. Six Eighty Cellars aren't making wine differently just to be different. Every experiment begins with curiosity and respect for the grape.
When the wine meets the horizon
2025 Merlot, Pét Nat by Six Eighty Cellars
Instead of asking what Cabernet Franc is supposed to taste like, they ask what else it could become.
We tasted a Carbonic Cabernet Franc that was bright and tart like a sour cherry but baked in a summer pie, followed by a Cabernet Franc made in the appassimento style that revealed a lush, stewed black cherry with a hint of molasses. It amazed me to experience an entirely different expression of the same variety. There was Chardonnay fermented in clay vessels, a beautifully balanced co-ferment of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, a single-varietal Pinot Meunier, and an impressive lineup of sparkling wines. I could go on and on.
Our Guide, Lauren Hess
She was remarkable. She made sure we tried a variety of their selection. Each one was a surprise.
Each glass challenged my expectations.
As someone who teaches wine, I loved that feeling. It reminded me that the best wine experiences don't always confirm what we already know, they encourage us to rethink it.
Our final stop was Hillock & Hobbs, named in honor of Paul Hobbs' parents. Yes, that Paul Hobbs. Here, we enjoyed a flight of Rieslings overlooking one of the most beautiful vineyard views in the region. It was a fitting conclusion to a day centered around a grape that has become synonymous with the Finger Lakes and reinforced just how many different expressions of Riesling this remarkable region can produce.
Hillick and Hobbs and Me being corny
The Finger Lakes has evolved into one of America's most exciting wine regions because visionary winemakers are expressing terroir in completely different ways. At Forge Cellars, that means listening to the vineyard and allowing each site to speak with honesty and transparency. At Six Eighty Cellars, it means challenging convention through thoughtful experimentation while never losing sight of the grape or the land. A visit to Hillick & Hobbs reinforces the remarkable diversity that exists within a region now recognized for producing world-class Riesling.
If your idea of wine country begins and ends with Napa, it's time to add the Finger Lakes to your travel list. Come with an open mind, ask questions, linger over the conversations, and let the wines tell you where they come from. You may arrive expecting to taste great Riesling, but you'll leave with a much deeper appreciation for a region that has confidently found its own voice. And if you do make the trip, I'd love to hear which winery changed the way you think about wine.
